The clutch in a 300ZX is your standard everyday clutch, nothing special. All non-turbos and 84-86 turbos have 240mm Nissan clutches. The 87-89 Turbos have 250mm Nissan clutches. All are hydraulically operated in the normal fashion. If you are going to replace yours, buy a quality one(This means not from auto zone) There are many of aftermarket clutches for 300ZXs, some can get very expensive very fast. ACT clutches are highly reccomended for modified turbos, for non turbo just a good quality OE clutch is more than adequate. You'll need an alignment tool, a clutch of course, appropriate weight/type gear oil, and a throwout bearing. You would also be advised to replace the rear main oil seal, and maybe all the clutch hydraulic stuff. The only non-common tool you'll need is a pair of inside snap ring pliers(For shift lever on non-turbos)

1. Remove the exhaust downpipe, catalytic converter, rear roll bar, driveshaft, starter, converter heat sheilding, and anything else in the way.
2. Unbolt the slave cyclinder from the transmission and hang out of the way and also remove the backup light switch. Drain gear oil.
3. Remove the center console in the car between the seats. Remove the dust boots that are around the shift lever(There are 2) Remove the c-clip that hold the shift lever in the transmission and remove it and its socket. There are two, the wrong one will release springs and stuff, don't take it out, take out the smaller diameter one.
4. Remove the rear transmission mount, supporting the transmission under the center section with a floor jack.
5. Place a small jack(spare tire jack works well) under the oil pan to support the engine, not forgetting to put a piece of wood in between first to protect the oil pan.
6. Now remove all the bolts holding the transmission to the engine. All but the top two are easy to get to. The top ones are easiest to remove with a shallow socket on a ~4 inch extension with a swivel head ratchet.
7. Pull the transmission straight back from the engine until the input shaft clears the pressure plate, then lower it on the jack. This will take at least two people, maybe three(One to pull jack to rear of car, one(or two) to balance and guide transmission.)
8. Remove old pressure plate, disc, and then flywheel. Have flywheel ground, not turned. Also change the rear main oil seal, it's real cheap and easy now. I highly advise you only use Nissan oil seals and gaskets.
9. Replace pilot bushing. If the old one is stuck in, break off a 6 inch piece of hacksaw blade and carefully cut into the old bushing from the inside out until it is mostly through, then hammer a small chisel into the cut you made and it should come out easily. If the new one is too tight, try freezing it by spraying it with a can of dust off held upside down(so the liquid comes out and freezes the bushing) and it shuold contract enough to get it started in the crankshaft.
10. Replace flywheel using permanent thread lock on the bolts and carefully torquing bolts. Replace clutch paying special attention to alignment and pressure plate torque(pressure plate only goes on one way) Replace throwout bearing, LIGHTLY greasing the pivot and contact points with bearing collar. If you want to torture yourself, you can also replace the pilot bearing, but it is not usually done, but if you can borrow the pilot bushing removal tool from your local Nissan shop, I'd go ahead and do it.
11. After cleaning transmission, place it back on the jack, get a couple friends, and attempt to put it back in. Of course, don't hang the transmission on the input shaft. When it is in place, it will slide on with hardly any trouble, it's just a pain to get it aligned.
12. Replace everything else you removed and bleed clutch. You may also want to replce the master and slave cyclinders and the flexible hose for preventative maintenance.

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