The clutch in a 300ZX is your standard everyday clutch, nothing
special. All non-turbos and 84-86 turbos have 240mm Nissan clutches.
The 87-89 Turbos have 250mm Nissan clutches. All are hydraulically
operated in the normal fashion. If you are going to replace yours,
buy a quality one(This means not from auto zone) There are many
of aftermarket clutches for 300ZXs, some can get very expensive very
fast. ACT clutches are highly reccomended for modified turbos, for
non turbo just a good quality OE clutch is more than adequate.
You'll need an alignment tool, a clutch of course, appropriate
weight/type gear oil, and a throwout bearing.
You would also be advised to replace the rear main oil seal, and
maybe all the clutch hydraulic stuff.
The only non-common tool you'll need is a pair of inside snap ring
pliers(For shift lever on non-turbos)
- Remove the exhaust downpipe, catalytic converter, rear roll bar,
driveshaft, starter, converter heat sheilding, and anything else
in the way.
- Unbolt the slave cyclinder from the transmission and hang out of the
way and also remove the backup light switch. Drain gear oil.
- Remove the center console in the car between the seats. Remove the
dust boots that are around the shift lever(There are 2) Remove the
c-clip that hold the shift lever in the transmission and remove it and
its socket. There are two, the wrong one will release springs and stuff,
don't take it out, take out the smaller diameter one.
- Remove the rear transmission mount, supporting the transmission
under the center section with a floor jack.
- Place a small jack(spare tire jack works well) under the oil pan
to support the engine, not forgetting to put a piece of wood in
between first to protect the oil pan.
- Now remove all the bolts holding the transmission to the engine.
All but the top two are easy to get to. The top ones are easiest to
remove with a shallow socket on a ~4 inch extension with a swivel
- Pull the transmission straight back from the engine until the input
shaft clears the pressure plate, then lower it on the jack. This will
take at least two people, maybe three(One to pull jack to rear of car,
one(or two) to balance and guide transmission.)
- Remove old pressure plate, disc, and then flywheel. Have
flywheel ground, not turned. Also change the rear main oil seal,
it's real cheap and easy now. I highly advise you only use Nissan
oil seals and gaskets.
- Replace pilot bushing. If the old one is stuck in, break off a
6 inch piece of hacksaw blade and carefully cut into the old bushing
from the inside out until it is mostly through, then hammer a small
chisel into the cut you made and it should come out easily. If the
new one is too tight, try freezing it by spraying it with a can
of dust off held upside down(so the liquid comes out and freezes
the bushing) and it shuold contract enough to get it started in the
- Replace flywheel using permanent thread lock on the bolts and
carefully torquing bolts.
Replace clutch paying special attention to alignment and pressure
plate torque(pressure plate only goes on one way)
Replace throwout bearing, LIGHTLY greasing the
pivot and contact points with bearing collar. If you want to torture
yourself, you can also replace the pilot bearing, but it is not usually
done, but if you can borrow the pilot bushing removal tool from your local
Nissan shop, I'd go ahead and do it.
- After cleaning transmission, place it back on the jack, get a couple
friends, and attempt to put it back in. Of course, don't hang the
transmission on the input shaft. When it is in place, it will slide
on with hardly any trouble, it's just a pain to get it aligned.
- Replace everything else you removed and bleed clutch. You may also want
to replce the master and slave cyclinders and the flexible hose for
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